Mullegama to Pitakumbura through the Nilgala Forest

Map around Rathmalgahaella – Click Map to Enlarge

Map around Pitakumbura – Click Map to Enlarge

Nelliyadda ruins

Ok this time it was an area I have not traveled around much and this stretch which extends from Iginiyagala to Bibila is also known as one of the most scenic rides by many. My intentions were mainly on hunting historically important locations. So on a random day I headed towards Rathmalgahaella with one of my staff member from the area. Our first place of interest was a place with an ancient “Bo” tree and some pillars organized as a fence by locals on the Rathmalgahaella – Maha oya road. According to locals there are lots of ruins around in surrounding privet land in this small village.

Nelliyadda Bo tree

stone pillars arranged as a fence by locals

flower alter at nelliadda

the bo tree with ruins at neeliadda

oil lamp carved in stone

dancing start

Paille Temple

Next temple is a place where a monk with a strong personality resides. Unfortunately I was not lucky enough to meet this extraordinary monk. Since my staff member Mr. Darmasaen knew in and out about this temple it was an ease for me. There is a pagoda which is fully covered with “mana”. Also there were monoliths scattered around. Locals do believe that this temple is a miraculous place where one can appreciate “Devatha Eli” on Poya days. Close by there is a beautiful lake to complete the requirement of an ancient temple.

monoliths at paille devalaya

at Paile temple

paille bo tree(this tree is a direct descendant of Sri maha bodiya

stone pillars at Paille

lake near Paille temple

image house at paille

Mallawa Raja geya

Next was a place hidden in the forest and hardly known by locals even. Before we decided to go in search of this place we parceled some lunch from Darmasenas place and met the police officers at Rathmalgahaella police post to inform them. Next we proceeded towards Galgamuwa and from there onwards we continued along a 4wd road which took us towards Meeyaththalawa. This beautiful village is surrounded by mountain peaks on three sides and it’s very picturesque. At one point we had to halt our trishaw and take path which fell along a pumpkin cultivation. After passing a forest patch we reached the last pumpkin patch which was at the base of the mountain range. We got directions to proceed forward from a local farmer who somehow directed us along the wrong path. After crossing a stream we went along a broken bund of an ancient lake and proceeded further uphill until we were exhausted. We had already travelled more than what the farmer requested us to do, we decided that there’s no point going further up and sat down and had our lunch before we started descending. While getting down we noted a huge habitable cave but we did not find any ruins in the surrounding. From here onwards we found a small foot path so we decided to take this path to get out of the forest and suddenly while walking I noted a fallen brick which prompted me to get on my knees to pick it up and inspect further. Guess what I saw, there was a “chatra” stone fallen in between bushes and this simply made us joyous. Near the “chatra” stone there was a pagoda which was vandalized by treasure hunters and in the surrounding area there were plenty of standing pillars camouflaged with trunks of the forest. We also came across some “korawak” stones and steps too. After hanging around a bit we proceeded along the path and came out of the forest happily because we found what we searched at the last moment. I still remember Darmasena saying “apita oka deviyo pennuwe ape chetanawa hoda hindai”.

go this way please

a hut at a Pumpkin chena

Mallawa rajage is said to be at the base of this mountain – Click Image to Enlarge

the path

a huge cave

stone pillars of mallawa rajage

the pagoda covered with leaves at Mallawa rajage

dugged up pagoda

the chatra stone at Mallawa rajage

a Korawak gala at Mallawa rajage

fallen monoliths

the mountain range

Pumpkins leaves

Mullegama Mulagiri Viharaya

From Galgamuwa(Rathugala) we left back towards Mullegama wild life office where one can find the road which leads towards the recently abandoned Mulagiri temple. It is sad to see a temple with such facilities gone to the wild because there is no monk to reside. After traveling 1.5km and passing the newly built lake one can reach this temple where there is an ancient pagoda, scattered pillars, altars, Yanthragal etc. there is also a shrine with some pillars. We came across a “Narang” tree which was like desert for us after a tiresome day. At around 4pm we had to leave temple premises to get the last bus towards Inginiyagala.

Mulagiri viharaya Mullegama

the pagoda at Mulagiri viharaya Mullegama

steps towards the pagoda

some ruins at Mulagiri viharaya Mullegama

remnants of a devalaya at Mulagiri viharaya Mullegama

an ancient moon stone at Mulagiri viharaya Mullegama

awasa geya

Day two was actually another random day which I decided to finish of the rest of the 60km stretch. So on a day with bad forecast, I took a bus towards Bibila from Inginiyagala and got down at a location called Hamanawa

Hamanawa temple

This temple is located close to the main road (21 km post) and within the temple premises one can note an ancient pagoda with altars, scattered stone pillars and “korawak” stones used with newly built steps other than that there was not much.

bo tree at Hamanawa temple note the korawak gal

early morning oil lamps were lit up

pagoda at hamanawa

korawak stone

newly built pagoda at hamanawa

Wilathigoda Ancient temple

My next stop was Wilathigoda temple which is 12 km away (at 9km post) from Hamanawa and again this temple is right on the side of the main road and the entrance made out of rock pillars are kissing the tar of the road. This entrance is unique in the sense that it once had rock poles across it resembling a “kadulla” and the drilled in holes for this purpose still can be seen on the monoliths. The head priest was extremely generous and was kind enough to offer some morning “dane” even before having a chat. After I had my breakfast I fell in to a deep conversation where I learnt a lot about ancient places around Bibila and I did jot down every bit of info I got. In the temple premises there are ruins of a Padanagara, Pagoda , many monoliths and moon stones etc.

the unique entrance at Wilathigoda

note the holes which once held rock bars

wilathigoda temple note the steps and moon stone

image house with korawak gal

this what remains of the ancient pagoda at Wilathigoda

altar at Wilathigoda

a korawak stone

ruins of a padanagara

Bokagonna ancient Devalaya

Next place I choose to visit was the miraculous Bokaganna devalaya where wonders do happen according to the locals. The local god known as “Hanmuthi Banda” is known to reside in this surrounding area. Since it was a “Kemmura” day I was lucky enough to experience “hewisi” and the “Pujawa”. The “nilame” at the davalaya was so generous and welcoming. I also came across stone pillars “korawak” stones and few other ruins suggesting that the “devalaya” also has had some royal influence within this 500 year period. To get to this “devalaya” one needs to take a 4wd road for 4km from Pitakumbura.

entering ancient bokagonna devalaya

the devalaya

ruins at bokagonna devalaya

a lamp

the two kapu mahaththayas they did treat me well

Hewisi

ready to be offered

it was very nice

here goes the drums

Weheragodapudama ancient site

There is a road starting in front of Pitakumbura rural hospital which leads towards Uyyankumbura Lake. On a rocky plateau there is an ancient site where one/two monks reside with very minimum facilities. At this site there is an ancient pagoda few scattered pillars and an inscription standing tall. The view from this location is simply stunning. There were no one at the moment when I visited the places so couldn’t get more information.

at the ancient temple of weheragodapudama

pagoda at weheragodapudama

inscription at weheragodapudama

view from the rock

more views

this is where the monk lives

lake of uyyankumbura

a grey heron

hard life

Kokunnawa ancient temple

Close to the 7th km post there is a historically important site known as Kokunnawa with not much remaining from the ancient era thanks to treasure hunters. At present only few monoliths can be seen around. It is said that after the “Sangha Sanharaya” the king had sent two royal officers to search for remaining monks and at this location these soldiers have come across two monks who were wearing white robes and after further questioning was identified as monks. They were recalled to the royal palace and the king reinstated the Bhikku society later with the help of these monks.

ancient temple of Kokunnawa where histroy takes a interesting turn

pillars at kokunnawa

bondries of a poya geya

flowers of bada irigu

Nagala Raja Maha Viharaya

Close to the 3rd km post there is a turn off towards Nagala temple. This temple somehow has been routinely occupied by Buddhist priest so currently it’s in fine condition. The temple has got its name because there is a cobra hood carved on the rock near the lake and there is an inscription on this rock too. The pagoda has been re fashioned and the ancient “chatra” stones still can be found within the premises. In addition “korawak” stones, altars and plenty of monoliths also can be found. There is a lake close to the rock which adds more value to the place. After visiting Naagala I decided to get back because of the bad weather.

pagoda at the ancient temple of Nagala

a rock inscription

because of this hood like carving the temple is called nagala

nagala lake

drops

note the chatra gal

nidan gala

a lamp

an altar

ruins at nagala

happy faces

Thank you for reading!